Whenever you entered carabiner carabiner in the search engine, you must have been in search of some detailed information about what a carabiner is, its functionality and the kind that fits your requirements best. Climber, camper, hiker, a lover of tactical gear, or someone who needs a solid key clipping tool and daily carry, the carabiner is a very versatile and useful tool that has ever been created.
We will cover the history, types, materials, locking systems, applications, safety standards, and purchasing factors and then in this comprehensive guide, we will take a breakdown of the carabiners in a review-style format to enable you to select the appropriate carabiner to suit your needs.
What Is a Carabiner?
A carabiner is a reversibly and permanently-joining metal loop, which is usually used in climbing, rope systems, or load-bearing systems. The term derives its name to the German term, karabinerhaken, the English translation of the German word, which translates to a carbine hook, and was commonly used by military personnel in the early years of the 20 th century.
The carabiner was a fundamental mountaineering device in the European Alps and was further perfected by companies like the Black Diamond Equipment and Petzl who contributed to the modernization of the carabiner in terms of shape, strength and safety features.
Today, carabiners are used in:
- Rock climbing
- Mountaineering
- Industrial rope access
- Arborist work
- Camping
- Tactical and military gear
- Keychains and everyday carry (EDC).
Types of Carabiners
Carabiners are not made equal. When it comes to using it in a load-bearing application then it is dangerous to select the wrong one.
Here are the main types
1. Non-Locking Carabiners
Carabiners are also locked to provide an extra security measure against an accidental opening of the gate.
Best for:
- Sport climbing
- Quickdraws
- Gear racking
2. Locking Carabiners
Locking carabiners add a safety mechanism to prevent the gate from opening accidentally.
a) Screw-Lock
Manual twisting sleeve that locks the gate.
- Reliable
- Affordable
- Slightly slower to use
b) Auto-Locking (Twist Lock or Triple Lock)
Automatically locks when released.
- Faster
- More secure
- Slightly heavier
Best for:
- Belaying
- Anchors
- Rappelling
- Critical safety systems
3. Shape Variations
Carabiner shape affects strength and usability.
- Oval – Balanced, symmetrical load distribution.
- D-Shape – Stronger along the spine; most common.
- Offset D – Lighter and optimized strength.
- Pear (HMS) – Larger basket; ideal for belay devices.
As an example, HMS pear-shaped locking carabiners are very common in use with belay devices such as those of DMM Wales.
Materials: Aluminum vs. Steel
Aluminum Carabiners
- Lightweight
- Corrosion resistant
- Ideal for climbing and hiking
- Typical strength: 20–25 kN
Steel Carabiners
- Heavier
- Extremely durable
- Higher strength ratings
- Used in industrial or rescue settings
If you’re climbing recreationally, aluminum is almost always the preferred choice. For industrial rope access or rescue operations, steel offers added durability.
Strength Ratings Explained
Climbing-rated carabiners are marked with strength measurements in kilonewtons (kN):
- Major axis (closed gate): Typically 20–28 kN
- Minor axis: Usually 7–10 kN
- Open gate: Often 6–9 kN
For reference:
1 kN ≈ 225 pounds of force.
So a 24 kN carabiner can theoretically withstand over 5,000 pounds of force under ideal conditions.
Common Uses of Carabiners
1. Rock Climbing
Carabiners are fundamental in systems used by climbers like Alex Honnold, who rely on top-tier safety-rated gear when not free soloing.
Uses include:
- Quickdraws
- Anchors
- Belay connections
- Rappelling setups
2. Camping & Hiking
Carabiners are useful for:
- Hanging lanterns
- Securing gear to backpacks
- Attaching water bottles
- Organizing camp items
Non-climbing-rated carabiners are often sufficient here.
3. Everyday Carry (EDC)
Mini carabiners are popular keychain tools. Brands like Nite Ize specialize in compact, innovative carabiner designs for daily use.
These are not load-bearing tools but are incredibly convenient.
4. Industrial & Rescue
Steel locking carabiners are used in rope access, construction and rescue. They are of high standards of safety including CE and UIAA certification.
Carabiner Safety Standards
When buying a load-bearing carabiner, look for certifications:
- UIAA (International climbing and mountaineering federation).
- CE (European conformity standards)
- ANSI (American National Standards Institute, industrial).
Never use decorative or keychain carabiners for climbing.
Product-Style Review: What a Great Carabiner Is.
Let’s break down what separates a high-quality carabiner from a cheap one.
1. Build Quality
Top-tier carabiners have:
- Smooth gate action
- No sharp edges
- Laser-etched strength markings
- Solid spring tension
Premium brands machine their aluminum to remove excess weight without sacrificing strength.
2. Gate Action
A good carabiner should:
- Snap shut instantly
- Not stick
- Lock securely without play
Auto-locking mechanisms should be smooth but firm enough to prevent accidental opening.
3. Weight
For climbers counting grams, weight matters.
- Standard aluminum locking carabiner: 50–80 grams
- Ultralight versions: 30–45 grams
- Steel: 150–250+ grams
Ultralight options are ideal for multi-pitch climbing.
4. Durability
Hard-anodized aluminum resists wear from ropes. Steel carabiners are best where repeated metal-on-metal friction occurs.
5. Price Range
- Basic keychain carabiners: $3–$15
- Climbing-rated aluminum: $10–$30
- Premium locking carabiners: $20–$40
- Industrial steel models: $30–$60+
Generally, spending a bit more ensures reliability.
Pros and Cons of Carabiners
Pros
✔ Extremely versatile
✔ Lightweight and strong
✔ Easy one-handed operation
✔ Reusable and durable
✔ Wide range of shapes and sizes
Cons
✘ Can be dangerous if misused
✘ Cheap versions may fail
✘ Locking models are heavier
✘ Not all are climbing-rated
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using non-rated carabiners for climbing
- Cross-loading (sideways loading)
- Leaving screw-gates partially unlocked
- Allowing gate flutter during falls
- Using worn-out gear beyond lifespan
Proper training and inspection are essential.
How to Choose the Right Carabiner
Ask yourself:
1. What’s the purpose?
Climbing requires certified gear. EDC does not.
2. Do you need locking?
Belay and anchors = Yes.
Gear racking = Not necessarily.
3. Weight or durability priority?
Aluminum = lightweight
Steel = durable
4. Budget?
Invest in safety-rated equipment when lives are involved.
Final Ruling: Why Your Gear Kit Should Have a Carabiner.
It may seem like a very simple carabiner, but it is exceptionally strong. Since the icy walls of the alpine mountains to the daily key organization, it is a fast, efficient linking system that has proven its worth over time.
It is an aid to life among climbers.
To the industrial workers, it is a safety anchor.
To campers and hikers it is a handy convenience.
To common users, it is an organization necessity.
It does not matter whether you are constructing a climbing rack that resembles the one used by professionals such as Lynn Hill or you are simply upgrading your EDC system; it is important to select a carabiner.
Bottom Line
When there is a safety concern, purchase certified equipment by a good manufacturer.
In the event convenience is the intended result, lightweight aluminum or stainless mini carabiners will be the best choice.
In case strength is a key feature, then steel locking models cannot be beaten.
Carabiner can be small- but it is a tool that can be of much use.
